Leopard Gecko Care sheet

Leopard geckos, (Eublepharis macularius), are amazing pets. Although they are quite resilient, they do require great care, like any other pet. They have been captive-bred in the U.S. and other countries for more than 20 years now. Not only can they be absolutely adorable, but make great first pets. Leopard geckos have become one of the most commonly kept lizards on the market. They come in many different sizes and colors. In fact, there are well over 20 different color morphs to choose from these days. Leopard geckos, although quite self-sufficient, require the following care.

Caging

The rule of thumb that is always used is 1 gecko per 10 gallons, but you can definitely house 2 in a 10 gallon terrarium; however; I recommend at least a 20g long tank just in case you want more Leos in the future.  They require a gradient temperature of hot on one side to cooler on the other.  The best way to achieve this is by using an UTH (Under Tank heater).  These can be purchased at any pet store, just make sure you get the appropriate size for your tank.  You can even use Sterlite or Rubbermaid tubs to house your gecko, as long as you provide sufficient air holes, a hot spot, and a cool spot. If you plan on using a terrarium, make sure that you have a screen top that fits securely over the top of the tank.  They should have at least one moist hide with Vermiculite, Peat Moss, or even wet paper towel set on the hot side of the tank. This is so the gecko can shed its skin properly.  Tupperware or the like works perfectly for this; just cut a hole in the side or lid.  We use Peat Moss, and it has worked amazingly thus far. Please be sure that your Peat Moss or Vermiculite has no commercial pesticides or fertilizers.  Most importantly, make sure to include 1 food dish, 1 water dish, 1 hide on the hot spot and 1 hide on the cool side of the tank.

Substrate

Many things such as tile, linoleum, sand, Repti-carpet, newspaper or paper towels can be use as Substrate for Leopard Geckos.  We find there are pros and cons to all of those different substrates.  Sand looks very nice as a substrate but can be very dangerous, even fatal, for your Leo if ingested. Leopard geckos often test their surroundings using their tongue, and so they can ingest sand this way. Also it can be ingested when hunting food.  At any rate, any amount could be harmful because they cannot digest the substrate and it builds up until it blocks their system entirely. Tile, Linoleum and other flat surfaces are nice and can provide a naturally looking environment, but can also be somewhat tougher to clean. Newspaper is a great way to go, and is a friend to
the environment.  Most Leo owners recommend paper towels. Paper towels don’t cover up the smell very well, but makes for very easy spot cleaning and they are cheap to come by. Since Leopard Geckos tend to set up a corner, or a specified spot in their tank as a bathroom using paper towels makes it a quick, easy and efficient way to clean up after them.

Temperature and Lighting

Under tank heating pads, or heat tape are the best ways to heat your leopard gecko. Any pet store will have these for sale; just make sure you get the appropriate size.  The heat pad should be placed all the way on one side of the tank, creating a thermal gradient.  As mentioned above, there should be 1 hot spot and one cool spot in the tank. The hot spot should be anywhere from 86-90 degrees Fahrenheit and the cool spot should be around 72-78 degrees.  The temperatures don’t have to be exact but should be somewhere in that range.

Leopard geckos are nocturnal; they do not require UVA/UVB lighting. So as long as there is some natural light in the room they are in they do require any of external lighting. Leos prefer to remain in a dark hiding place during the day, and bright lights constantly shining in their eyes can stress them out.

::Caution::
Stay clear of heat rocks as they tend to be entirely too hot and will burn your new pet! 
 

Food

Leopard geckos will eat a variety of live pray including crickets, superworms, wax worms, mealworms, roaches and even pinkie mice.  Mealworms are the
most common. They are easy to find, can be kept alive in the fridge for weeks at a time and since they can’t climb or jump they can be kept in a dish without escaping.  Superworms are just like mealworms only bigger and they must be kept at room temperature; refrigerating will kill them.  Crickets are also very common and are easy to find. Crickets tend to have the most nutritional value, but like everything else, there are pros and cons.  They stink, they chirp and they can’t be left unattended in the cage.  Wax worms are great as a treat but due to their high fat content it is not recommended to use them on a regular basis; they are like the snickers of the insect world. Pinkies (yes...baby mice) can be fed to older leopard geckos, but again, they are mostly just fat content and not really all that good as far as a daily diet is concerned.   For our Leo’s we feed them on Mealworms and Superworms with the occasional wax worms as treats.

Younger geckos eat daily, and adults eat about every other day. The amount of food items per feeding depends how much the gecko will eat in ten minutes. Start out by giving your gecko 4 to 6 insects and add more as necessary.  The Majority of Leos won’t over eat, so you don’t have to worry about feeding them too much.  In fact most people leave a dish filled with mealworms in the cage at all times.

Gut loading the insects is essential to your leopard gecko’s health. An insect can be gut loaded on any number of things.  We use ground up oatmeal as bedding for the mealworms and superworms. We also throw in potatoes, carrots, or even apples for moisture; basically any vegetable or fruit will do.  

Vitamins and Calcium are also an important part of your gecko’s health.  Most pet stores carry reptile vitamins just make sure you get the one that has D3 in it.  Since Leos are nocturnal it is important to provide them with D3 in their diet.  As far as calcium/vitamin powder is concerned, you can coat the worms with the powder before feeding them to your leopard gecko. Just place the insect in dish or bag with a little bit of the powder and shake it around.   It is also recommended to keep a small dish (I use gatoraid or medium water bottle lids) of calcium in the cage with the Leos.  You probably won’t seem them eat it very often but if they need it they will.

Water is also essential for you leopard gecko. A shallow water dish should be kept near the food dish at all times. Pretty much anything can be used for a water dish be it something from a pet store or something as simple as the cap to a water bottle.  It also might be best to
keep the water on the cool spot of the tank that way the water doesn’t evaporate unexpectedly.   

Life Span

In the wild Leopard geckos can live up to 20 years; however;  the average life span of a leopard gecko in captivity is 8-10 years, but, with proper pet care, the life span of the leopard gecko can be stretched up to 15 years. 

Size

The size of a leopard gecko depends on its age.  Hatchlings are usually 3 to 4 inches long whereas adult females are typically 7 to 8 inches, and males are 8 to 10 inches. Some males of the giant bloodlines reach nearly a foot.  Leos usually reach their full size after about 2 years of age.